Definitely worth a little detour: Armenia!
From the small border crossing Bagratashen-Sadakhlo we followed the river through the impressive, contradictory Debed Canyon to Vandadzor. Right behind the border in the middle of wild flower meadows we found a perfect camping spot for the first night in Armenia (ignoring the first moskitos and the short rain shower when putting the tent up….). Perfect spot also for sending our Mother’s Day greetings 🙂
Along the river in Debed Canyon, we drove 1 1/2 days in the valley, along steep, green hills without much traffic – great route!!
Along the road: welcoming people, old soviet style Trucks and loooaaaads of good ol‘ Marijuana.
The whole canyon was full of strange out-of-place remainders of past times (not sure about the era of this broken Soviet-style American dream?!)
Once our small camera broke, the big one had to serve as a „point-and-shoot“ (while I was watching the traffic…).
We were already much impressed by what we saw inside the canyon but it got even more exciting as we discovered whats up, outside of the canyon, on the plains above us. Throughout the canyon there are (shabby) cablecars, still from the Soviet times, which take you from the bottom of the canyon up to the plains. A funny way of transport which many people living there use daily to travel between villages.
On the plains, 800 m above the canyon a different world awaits us: like here at the World Heritage Listed monastery Sanahin!
Graves from the 11th century. Daunting!
And then we are back inside the canyon on the street in 2014 (or not?)
Though there was a lot of Soviet-era infrastructure along the way already, we were not prepared for the sight which was waiting around the next corner…..
We decided to stay the night and have a closer look at the mining village Alaverdi or should we say „Mordor“. The copper mine is still active and to lessen the pollution for villagers and the canyon the mine company has built a huge chimney into the mountain. Together with this smoking mountain and the dead terrain around it we felt like being in another world. Awful such a sight in the middle of this beautiful, lush and green canyon. Shocking and intriguing at the same time.
We risked it all and took the cable car up the hill
When we wanted to take a picture, the conductor was so nice to OPEN THE DOOR for us during the ride. (NO) PROBLEM!
This time, on top of the canyon we found a a run-down city, the MiG Museum, and another UNESCO World Heritage monastery. What a weird place this canyon…..
Our hostel in Alaverdi village (down in the canyon right next to the river)
The next day was a full day of uphill cycling to exit the canyon, with a mix of sun, thunderstorms and rainbows. A mix of 30 min biking, 15 min waiting in the trees for the rain to pass. Exhausting, but with magic moments.
We then left our bikes at a guesthouse in Vanadzor and took a bus to Yerevan
Our few civilized city clothes are out again 🙂
And yes, we are enjoying our trip, here in one of Yerevan`s million outdoor cafés!!
We took a one-day trip by bus with a group from the hostel we stayed in. From Yerevan to Lake Sevan, passing by at the cave church Geghard Monastery, Garni Temple and an impressive cementary full of old, typical Armenian cross-stones (Khatchkars).
Armenian home cooked food is delicious!
We returned to Vanadzor, met a nice German speaking guy who invited us for coffee and cognac and then took off by bike again, heading back to Georgia (via Spitak, Gyumri, and Bavra).
Definitely a recommendable route – not much traffic and wonderful landscapes!
Quiet camping spot, good firewood, 7-year old Ararat cognac – travel life couldn’t be better!
At a height of 2000 m, just before the border crossing to Georgia: beautiful last kilometers in a beautiful country, full of old Christian culture and wide mountainous landscapes!